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"AM" (ap18961) 06/02/2015 at 09:19 • Filed to: None

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Seen it at Tim Hortons this morning. Little British flag on the rear quarter panel was a nice touch.

Berang > AM 06/02/2015 at 09:21

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Triumph

McMike > AM 06/02/2015 at 09:22

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Triumph TR6 (68–76)

thebigbossyboss > AM 06/02/2015 at 09:23

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sunbeam alpine?

SidewaysOnDirt still misses Bowie > AM 06/02/2015 at 09:23

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Triumph TR6

Rainbow > McMike 06/02/2015 at 09:24

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I finally recognize the car in one of these posts, and I’m too late.

thebigbossyboss > McMike 06/02/2015 at 09:25

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Ah god damn it. I mistook a MG for a Triumph the other day so I have been wary of calling them. Hence my sunbeam guess lol.

Cherry_man1 > AM 06/02/2015 at 09:27

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TR6

AM > McMike 06/02/2015 at 09:27

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Thanks! Couldn't figure it out for the life of me

Ash78, voting early and often > Berang 06/02/2015 at 09:30

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Great answer

For me to poop on!

TwinCharged - Is Now UK Opponaut > AM 06/02/2015 at 09:37

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TR6 - German design wouldn't you know. One of my favourite British sports cars IMO.

Cé hé sin > AM 06/02/2015 at 09:37

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A TR6 with battering ram bumpers.

Interestingly nearly all the TR6s made went to America.

AM > Cé hé sin 06/02/2015 at 09:43

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The bumpers are awesome! Someone in Canada has great taste in cars.

AM > TwinCharged - Is Now UK Opponaut 06/02/2015 at 09:43

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Very cool car indeed!

McMike > AM 06/02/2015 at 09:58

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Cool enough for Paul Newman

Svend > AM 06/02/2015 at 10:08

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Needs more flag.

Cé hé sin > AM 06/02/2015 at 10:08

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You like the rubber over riders?

They’re more usually like this: (bonus Reliant Scimitar to its right)

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > AM 06/02/2015 at 10:10

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Neat! TR6 :) I’ve got the 2.5l mechanical injected I6 from one of those (UK spec, US spec had stromberg carbs I think) to go into my ‘74 Spitfire :)

This car was part of the reason that cars like the Datsun 240Z never really gained any kind of foothold here in the UK. In the US, the 240Z occupied a performance tier one up from the old British sports cars thanks to their emissions-spec engines (and lack of moula back in the UK holding back development). I think it was 105bhp for the US-spec TR250/TR6 and 135bhp for the 240Z (net figures).

Here in the UK we had the 141bhp (net) Lucas injected TR5 and TR6, making for much stiffer competition.

AM > Cé hé sin 06/02/2015 at 10:35

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It looks awesome with the rubber pieces, you don't see those everyday.

AM > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 06/02/2015 at 10:37

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I would probably take one of these over the Datsun! I've always had a thing for old British cars though, they may never work but boy are they wonderful.

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 06/02/2015 at 10:42

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Speaking of the injection, any progress in the throttle body shortening project, or has it all been suspension work?

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 06/02/2015 at 11:22

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A little actually yeah :) I’ve decided to sod trying to cut down 50mm OD tube for the moment and see if I can find some 48mm OD tube which will fit perfectly...

Beyond that I need to wait til I fab up an exhaust manifold and mount the bonnet so I can check clearances with the ‘bodies so everything’s been suspension-oriented.

I have ordered some materials for re-upholstering my seats though :) MacBeth Modern tartan for the centres and black vinyl for the bolsters :)

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > AM 06/02/2015 at 11:32

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You and me both :) and the ‘never working’ bit is easily sortable with modern knowledge. There’s been near continuous development on the popular cars such as TRs, MGBs, Spitfires and Midgets since the day they were brought out so there’s fixes for damn near every little niggle :)

Personally, I’ve got some rather unorthodox plans for a TR6. After the BL merger and the creation of Specialist Division from the combined Rover and Triumph engineering departments: responsible for the Rover SD1 (Specialist Division 1), the Triumph I6 was re-engineered into the SOHC Al-head forged crank 2.3l and 2.6l I6s that powered the mid-tier SD1s.

There’s a lot of rumour going around that the 2.6l versions were detuned using the camshaft from the 2.3l version as pre-production engines were troubling the 3.5l Rover V8 top-of-the-range model. Despite that, not many people have done much with them, partially due to a reputation for oil starvation to the head.

However, I think one attached to an LT77 5-speed with the head oiling problems sorted, a hotter cam, injection and a ported head would make a bloody quick TR6 :)

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 06/02/2015 at 11:35

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Macbeth The Scottish Play Modern looks like it’ll do nicely. Some things you can only get away (or is that awa’?) with on a ‘70s or ‘80s car, and by gum that’s one of them, but it should be excellent.

I’ve done a quick look into what to do with exhaust manifolds on my V8, since the crossover-on-one-side 4-2-1 manifolds normal for the 3.9 and 4.2 do well enough for runner lengths and clearance, but are a bit small, and I’ve only got a left hand one, cracked and warped. Replacements are expensive and may not land the drop-pipe where I want - there are a fairly cheap set of tubulars for a Rover available out of Summit Racing, but I’m not sure they’re low enough profile - the rearmost pipe on each side is quite close to the firewall pocket. If needs must, I can beat that out a bit to fit, but I’d rather not. Worst, I suppose I could cut the rearmost pipe off, sand form it to lower profile, and wangle the pipe so I could weld it back on, but that seems like a lot of trouble. I also lose with that setup the 4-2-1 binding which is beneficial in some respects. I don’t know. I may try getting a load of good tube and sand-forming the whole thing.

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 06/02/2015 at 11:54

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I’ve got a bit of exhaust work ahead for me too. I’ve either got to find a cheap stainless manifold to pinch the flange from and modify the tubes (the usual aftermarket ones you get have hideously variable runner lengths), or make up a flange and make my own manifold (probably out of wedge-sections of cut tube as I don’t have a mandrel bender). Definitely sounds easier to modify an existing manifold than make one from scratch :S

I can hazard a guess as to what sand-forming is, but could you enlighten me?

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 06/02/2015 at 12:04

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I only found about about it within the past 24 hours or so myself - sand forming is taking a piece of tubing, filling it with sand, and tacking caps into both ends. Then you heat the tubing to red hot to bend it, and you don’t really need a mandrel other than just a round cylinder, because the incompressibility of the sand keeps the tubing from collapsing on itself badly. Definitely something that may be worth a try...

AM > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 06/02/2015 at 12:06

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Wow you sure know your stuff! I agree though, most issues can be resolved since modern parts are so much more advanced and if you take care of them right they’ll be just fine. As for your plan for the TR6, I’d be very intrigued to see the results.

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > AM 06/03/2015 at 04:07

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Exactly :) it’s not even modern parts in some cases (for instance it’s harder to find good bearings for the Triumph OHC engines now compared to a couple of decades ago as Vandervell got bought out and stopped producing them).

A lot of the time it’s just ‘drill out x oil pathway to 3/16ths to increase oiling’.

I’m sure I’ll get round to it at some point, although I’ve got an 1850 engined Spitfire and a Saab B202 engined GT6 before that!

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 06/03/2015 at 04:09

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Now that sounds like something I could do :) I expect it’s a bugger to get enough heat into it to bend it properly with all the sand in there, but it sounds pretty damn good.

I suppose now would be the time to start building the forge I want to make :)

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 06/03/2015 at 08:22

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The tricks for sand-forming appear to be to either cold work with wet sand (packs tighter) when working thin-wall stuff for moderate bends, and to make sure to have absolutely dry sand for the torch work. If you don’t have perfectly dry sand (one guy suggested oven-heating before-hand), you risk steam explosions - another safety measure is to have pore holes in one of your end caps. You’re right about the lots of heat thing - one note I remember from a guy who’d done it was that he used a hole tank of acetylene for 8 pipes just learning how to do it properly. It’s also hard to get the bends you want without a way to re-pack the sand as the pipe stretches. Some guys have a little screw setup with a bolt so they can re-tighten with a wrench.

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 06/03/2015 at 08:56

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Hmmm, sounds like I may be able to get away with cold-forming for my manifold. I’d be looking to avoid tight bends as it is. For repacking sand perhaps have an external cap with a captive nut welded on, and then a bolt through that with another cap on the inner end so you can wind the ‘cap’ inwards as you go...

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 06/03/2015 at 09:18

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I need very tight bends to clear the firewall and shock towers on mine, so I may have to use a combination of techniques, starting with a number of thin-wall scraps like this for the breaks on #1-2 and #7-8. For a proper 4-2-1 I need to pair 1/5, 3/7 on the left and 2/4, 6/8 on the right, if I’m remembering that correctly. 1 1/2” pipe is still a bit big for those ports, I think - maybe I should try to find something smaller elsewhere than summit. That’s the trouble with working with a “small displacement” by American standards V8 - everybody building headers is doing it for 350ci minimum. My 2-1/4 or 2-1/2 main pipe per side would call (in a 4-2-1 manifold) for 1-3/4 sized pairs and no more than 1-1/4 pipes at the head...

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 06/03/2015 at 09:48

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On revisiting things and what’s available, I’m starting to think the best plan is to get some 180 degree bends in stainless 1 1/2 with 1 1/2 bend radius (available, about $24 per), cut them in halves as-needed (4 overall), get stainless plate to use a plasma cutter on for seating plates, and get just enough other stainless (1 3/4 short legs, 2 1/4 main stub) to sand form lightly to the right shapes and then have an associate experienced in S/S TIG weld the whole thing. I expect to thermal wrap the whole thing, so some minor seaming shouldn’t be bad. The only trick will be figuring out Autodesk Inventor well enough to draw them up...